by: Victor Epand
Stone setting in general is much more difficult than many might suspect. There are short courses in various sorts of jewelry work but those provide only a basic starting place and years of experience needed to become truly proficient in many areas. Fortunately, if a person devotes time to stone setting and does enough of one style of setting to become comfortable with it, moving on to similar styles is not nearly as difficult as those "first trials".
As you likely know, stone setting is done in many different styles. Within those styles, one jeweler may use slightly different methods than would another jeweler doing the exact same job. There is room to experiment with methods but only after you have set a few stones and are pleased with the results. Once you have a feel for the metal and the gems, then you know enough not to totally mess-up by trying a slightly different method.
Stone Setting Styles. I will mention a few styles and recommend what I believe is the best place to begin.The prong settings using faceted stones. This is the best place to begin. Start with a round stone, perhaps 4mm to 7mm in diameter. Smaller stones are more difficult until you learn the "give and take" of the metal, while larger stones present other problems. Start with normal prongs, generally four or six to the setting.
There are lots of prong settings with fancy formed and decorated prongs but those are not the best with which to begin learning. I don't care if the prong settings are part of a pendant, ring or earrings. The idea is fairly plain and basic prong settings regardless of the jewelry type.
The Bezel Settings, is use a narrow area of metal around the girdle or waist of the stone to secure the stone in the setting. The most basic form is seen in typical southwestern turquoise jewelry, essentially a band of silver wrapped around the stone and pressed down toward the stone from the top.
The more dramatic and much more difficult bezel is "flush set", where a gemstone is set directly into the surface of metal such as on a ring band and the metal is burnished or hammered to the stone then finished for smoothness. This last technique is quite difficult for a beginner and is best left until you feel ready for it and have the equipment to do the job.
Channel Settings. You have seen these settings in which rows of stones are set into a "groove" or channel of metal. This is also a difficult job and should not be attempted to start. To try a channel setting without lots of previous metal and seat cutting experience will lead to frustration and disappointment. Look at channel set stones at a jewelry store.
Inexpensive jewelry is a "fake job" and the stones are in a channel but held in place with little burs of metal pushed over opposite sides of the stone. Stones fall out of these settings! A real channel set has the metal along the channel pushed down onto the stones, all along the channel. You need to learn to bezel set before doing channel settings since some similar techniques are used.
Bead Set or Pave Setting. This setting is done with hand tools in the final stages, forming metal over one stone at a time and sometimes two at a time using "graver" tools. This is advanced technique. A setting style with a similar look uses "needle point" prongs formed to start with in the metal. We can talk about that sometime down the road.
Fancy Shaped Stones. Even when using prong settings, fancy shaped stones need added techniques. Essentially the same methods are used to cut seats and tighten prongs for emerald cuts as for round and oval stones. Marquise and pear shapes have a pointed end requiring a different seat cutting method to hold the pointed end securely without breaking the stone! The problem with emerald cuts is getting the stone level and straight and secure enough that the stone will not "turn" in the prongs.
The problem with stones with pointed ends or corners is cutting the seat and tightening without damage to the stone. Such fancy shape are not to be feared but understood to be more difficult, requiring practiced hand control before attempting.
Settings. I recommend starting with simple prong settings, generally found in four and six prong versions. Note, jewelers often use the words settings, heads, crowns and mountings to mean the same thing.
Stone Shapes. I recommend round faceted stones in sizes from perhaps 4mm to 7mm. You may try ovals stone, too, but do a few rounds first. With ovals, over tightening any prong can make the stone go sideways a bit in the prongs.
Stone Kinds. CZ's are good to start as are man-made birthstones. Most of the birthstones are synthetic sapphire (corundum) and are quite hard. The value of these stones is, they are pretty when set and are not expensive. The cuts are fairly uniform, too, compared to less expensive natural stones. Still, you need to practice on some stones which are not tough as the birthstones. For this, choose perhaps some inexpensive, meaning almost colorless, amethysts and inexpensive garnets.
These will not be the most beautiful gems but are wonderful for practice and can look pretty in earrings and pendants. You will likely discover the girdle or waist of inexpensive natural gems may be varied in thickness and the angles of the facets on the pavilion or bottom of the stone may vary. The idea is to get the stone level in the mounting so it looks level to the eye.
For the work to be done just like it should, stone seats need to be cut into the prongs to match the gemstone on hand. I suggest trying something in sterling silver. The metal is easy to bend and work. In fact, sterling is soft enough to "over bend" without due care. Gold is somewhat more springy and takes more effort to properly set than silver. However, gold is more forgiving than silver and certainly takes a better finish in the final steps. I suggest a sterling pendant, facet set stone in prongs. That is a good starting place.
Please, keep in mind the main idea is to have a finished piece that does look good to the eye! The stone should be safe and secure in the setting but that is not "seen". What is seen is the finished jewelry. That is the impression both to you and to anyone who happens to see it. Set the stone at a pleasing depth in the prongs, stone set level, finish off the prongs so all is uniform and neatly done. It will take some time to get use to this kind of think, but when you do get use to this kind of thing you will have no problem fixing your jewelery, your families, maybe even some of your friends jewelery
Selasa, 01 Januari 2008
Diamond – April's Gemstone Of Sparkling Glamour
by: Sarah Stephens
Diamond is a precious gemstone frequently incorporated into some of the most modern, beautiful handmade jewelry in the world. It is a clear stone revered for its ability to reflect light, and is widely recognized as the April Birthstone and the center stone used in most American engagement rings. But beyond its modern-day uses and associations, diamonds hold a decadent mythological, spiritual and etymological history that add nostalgic value to their already strong aesthetic worth. Read on for more information that will help you fall in love with your diamond jewelry – or inspire you to buy some today!
Diamonds are prized for their beauty and durability. A form of carbon, the Diamond is the world’s hardest known natural material. In fact, the word "Diamond" comes from the ancient Greek adamas, which means invincible. Because of their durability, Diamonds have been used in tools for since antiquity. Diamonds were first used as religions icons in India nearly 2,500 years ago. Since then, they've become highly coveted gemstones.
Diamonds are often described and valued by their gemological characteristics: The Four C's (carat, color, cut and clarity). Although Diamonds are used in many types of fine jewelry, they are traditionally associated with engagement and wedding rings. Most people think diamonds are white or colorless. In fact, yellow and brown Diamonds are the most common. Any Diamond with a hue other than brown or yellow is considered a colored Diamond. Colorless Diamonds are pure or nearly pure. The color scale for colorless diamonds goes from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow).
Diamonds look best as parts of formal evening jewelry when paired with Black Onyx, dark amethyst or cool blue sapphire. More casual combinations include lighter, bridal colored blends with aquamarine, pearls and carnelian. To see a selection of handmade artisan jewelry featuring raw diamonds, visit http://www.dashaboutique.com/shopbygemstone. Diamond is typically considered a sophisticated gemstone that works well with any outfit. In earrings, it works especially well to enhance the luster of blue or green eyes.
Almost half of all Diamonds come from mines in central and southern Africa. The other half comes from mines in Canada, India, Russia, Brazil and Australia. Today, the jewelry industry is buzzing about high-quality or lab-created diamonds. These synthetic diamonds possess the same molecular structure as natural diamonds. With public concerns about the mining industry, these man-made beauties offer a compelling alternative to the real thing.
Mohs' Hardness score is based on a 10 point scale where 10 is the most resistant, like a diamond, and 1 is easily scratched, such as Talc. Diamonds are often proved real by the fact that they can scratch glass. Because they are such scratch resistant stones, diamonds are extremelty suitable as a component of oft-worn jewelry. Diamonds should be regularly cleaned by a professional or with a soft rag and mild soap and water. Avoid ultra-sonic cleaners, solvents and harsh chemicals when cleaning your handcrafted jewelry as exposure to these elements can damage semi-precious and precious gemstones and pearls.
Learn more about all semi-precious and precious gemstones, including amethyst, apatite, aquamarine, black onyx, blue topaz, carnelian, chalcedony, citrine, coral, garnet, white topaz, crystal, diamond, emerald, iolite, jade, Labradorite, moonstone, pearl, peridot, prehnite, rose quarz, ruby, sapphire, smokey topaz, tanzanite, tourmaline and tourquoise when you check out this gemstone chart: http://www.dashaboutique.com/gemstone chart.html.
Diamond is a precious gemstone frequently incorporated into some of the most modern, beautiful handmade jewelry in the world. It is a clear stone revered for its ability to reflect light, and is widely recognized as the April Birthstone and the center stone used in most American engagement rings. But beyond its modern-day uses and associations, diamonds hold a decadent mythological, spiritual and etymological history that add nostalgic value to their already strong aesthetic worth. Read on for more information that will help you fall in love with your diamond jewelry – or inspire you to buy some today!
Diamonds are prized for their beauty and durability. A form of carbon, the Diamond is the world’s hardest known natural material. In fact, the word "Diamond" comes from the ancient Greek adamas, which means invincible. Because of their durability, Diamonds have been used in tools for since antiquity. Diamonds were first used as religions icons in India nearly 2,500 years ago. Since then, they've become highly coveted gemstones.
Diamonds are often described and valued by their gemological characteristics: The Four C's (carat, color, cut and clarity). Although Diamonds are used in many types of fine jewelry, they are traditionally associated with engagement and wedding rings. Most people think diamonds are white or colorless. In fact, yellow and brown Diamonds are the most common. Any Diamond with a hue other than brown or yellow is considered a colored Diamond. Colorless Diamonds are pure or nearly pure. The color scale for colorless diamonds goes from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow).
Diamonds look best as parts of formal evening jewelry when paired with Black Onyx, dark amethyst or cool blue sapphire. More casual combinations include lighter, bridal colored blends with aquamarine, pearls and carnelian. To see a selection of handmade artisan jewelry featuring raw diamonds, visit http://www.dashaboutique.com/shopbygemstone. Diamond is typically considered a sophisticated gemstone that works well with any outfit. In earrings, it works especially well to enhance the luster of blue or green eyes.
Almost half of all Diamonds come from mines in central and southern Africa. The other half comes from mines in Canada, India, Russia, Brazil and Australia. Today, the jewelry industry is buzzing about high-quality or lab-created diamonds. These synthetic diamonds possess the same molecular structure as natural diamonds. With public concerns about the mining industry, these man-made beauties offer a compelling alternative to the real thing.
Mohs' Hardness score is based on a 10 point scale where 10 is the most resistant, like a diamond, and 1 is easily scratched, such as Talc. Diamonds are often proved real by the fact that they can scratch glass. Because they are such scratch resistant stones, diamonds are extremelty suitable as a component of oft-worn jewelry. Diamonds should be regularly cleaned by a professional or with a soft rag and mild soap and water. Avoid ultra-sonic cleaners, solvents and harsh chemicals when cleaning your handcrafted jewelry as exposure to these elements can damage semi-precious and precious gemstones and pearls.
Learn more about all semi-precious and precious gemstones, including amethyst, apatite, aquamarine, black onyx, blue topaz, carnelian, chalcedony, citrine, coral, garnet, white topaz, crystal, diamond, emerald, iolite, jade, Labradorite, moonstone, pearl, peridot, prehnite, rose quarz, ruby, sapphire, smokey topaz, tanzanite, tourmaline and tourquoise when you check out this gemstone chart: http://www.dashaboutique.com/gemstone chart.html.
Aquamarine – March's Gemstone Of Ocean Dreams
by: Sarah Stephens
Aquamarine is a semi-precious gemstone frequently incorporated into some of the most modern, beautiful handmade jewelry in the world. It is most often found in shades of clear ocean blue, and is widely recognized as the March Birthstone and the gemstone for the 18th anniversary. But beyond its modern-day uses and associations, aquamarine holds a decadent mythological, spiritual and etymological history that adds nostalgic value to its already strong aesthetic worth. Read on for more information that will help you fall in love with your aquamarine jewelry – or inspire you to buy some today!
The beautiful Aquamarine is semi-precious, a light greenish blue to a vibrant blue variety of the species beryl, which makes it a relative of the Emerald. The name Aquamarine is derived from Latin, meaning seawater. "Aqua" translates to water and "marina" translates to sea. This seems especially appropriate for aquamarine's barely-there icy blue tones to intense greenish-blue tones, reminiscent of the sea. Also believed to embody the spirit of the sea, it has been regarded as a symbol of purification, ever-lasting youth, and happiness.
The sparkling tones and light blue hues are said to evoke feelings of trust, harmony and sympathy. The unique blues that the Aquamarine displays are said to represent eternity and life-giving properties, since it is, after all, the color of both the sea and the skies.
Aquamarine gemstones look best as parts of formal evening jewelry when paired with Black Onyx, black pearls or dark blue sapphire. More casual combinations include lighter, bridal colored combinations with quartz, raw diamonds or pearls. To see a selection of handmade artisan jewelry featuring aquamarine, visit www.dashaboutique.com/shopbygemstone. Aquamarine is typically considered a sophisticated gemstone that works well with any outfit. In earrings, it works especially well to enhance the luster of blue or green eyes.
According to legend, Aquamarine originated in a treasure chest for mermaids. Throughout history, Roman fisherman have used aquamarine as protection from the water, as the gemstone is believed to lend strength and confidence. Aquamarine's powers are said to develop best if the stone is immersed in sun-drenched water. Carrying aquamarine is also believed to guarantee a happy marriage, making the owner not only happy, but wealthy as well.
Mostly mined in Brazil, China, and Pakistan, Aquamarine is the designated birthstone for the month of March. It is also the zodiac sign Pisces assigned gem, and for the18th anniversary. This gem is often cut into faceted shapes, smooth cabochons, beads and carvings.
Mohs' Hardness score is based on a 10 point scale where 10 is the most resistant, like a diamond, and 1 is easily scratched, such as Talc. Aquamarine gets a score of 7.5-8, meaning that it is quite scratch resistant and therefore suitable as a component of jewelry. Aquamarine gemstones should be regularly cleaned by a professional or with a soft rag and mild soap and water or an ultra-sonic cleaner. Avoid solvents and harsh chemicals when cleaning your handcrafted jewelry as exposure to these elements can damage semi-precious and precious gemstones and pearls.
Learn more about all semi-precious gemstones, including amethyst, apatite, black onyx, blue topaz, carnelian, chalcedony, citrine, coral, garnet, white topaz, crystal, diamond, emerald, iolite, jade, Labradorite, moonstone, pearl, peridot, prehnite, rose quarz, ruby, sapphire, smokey topaz, tanzanite, tourmaline and tourquoise when you check out this gemstone chart: www.dashaboutique.com/gemstone chart.html
Aquamarine is a semi-precious gemstone frequently incorporated into some of the most modern, beautiful handmade jewelry in the world. It is most often found in shades of clear ocean blue, and is widely recognized as the March Birthstone and the gemstone for the 18th anniversary. But beyond its modern-day uses and associations, aquamarine holds a decadent mythological, spiritual and etymological history that adds nostalgic value to its already strong aesthetic worth. Read on for more information that will help you fall in love with your aquamarine jewelry – or inspire you to buy some today!
The beautiful Aquamarine is semi-precious, a light greenish blue to a vibrant blue variety of the species beryl, which makes it a relative of the Emerald. The name Aquamarine is derived from Latin, meaning seawater. "Aqua" translates to water and "marina" translates to sea. This seems especially appropriate for aquamarine's barely-there icy blue tones to intense greenish-blue tones, reminiscent of the sea. Also believed to embody the spirit of the sea, it has been regarded as a symbol of purification, ever-lasting youth, and happiness.
The sparkling tones and light blue hues are said to evoke feelings of trust, harmony and sympathy. The unique blues that the Aquamarine displays are said to represent eternity and life-giving properties, since it is, after all, the color of both the sea and the skies.
Aquamarine gemstones look best as parts of formal evening jewelry when paired with Black Onyx, black pearls or dark blue sapphire. More casual combinations include lighter, bridal colored combinations with quartz, raw diamonds or pearls. To see a selection of handmade artisan jewelry featuring aquamarine, visit www.dashaboutique.com/shopbygemstone. Aquamarine is typically considered a sophisticated gemstone that works well with any outfit. In earrings, it works especially well to enhance the luster of blue or green eyes.
According to legend, Aquamarine originated in a treasure chest for mermaids. Throughout history, Roman fisherman have used aquamarine as protection from the water, as the gemstone is believed to lend strength and confidence. Aquamarine's powers are said to develop best if the stone is immersed in sun-drenched water. Carrying aquamarine is also believed to guarantee a happy marriage, making the owner not only happy, but wealthy as well.
Mostly mined in Brazil, China, and Pakistan, Aquamarine is the designated birthstone for the month of March. It is also the zodiac sign Pisces assigned gem, and for the18th anniversary. This gem is often cut into faceted shapes, smooth cabochons, beads and carvings.
Mohs' Hardness score is based on a 10 point scale where 10 is the most resistant, like a diamond, and 1 is easily scratched, such as Talc. Aquamarine gets a score of 7.5-8, meaning that it is quite scratch resistant and therefore suitable as a component of jewelry. Aquamarine gemstones should be regularly cleaned by a professional or with a soft rag and mild soap and water or an ultra-sonic cleaner. Avoid solvents and harsh chemicals when cleaning your handcrafted jewelry as exposure to these elements can damage semi-precious and precious gemstones and pearls.
Learn more about all semi-precious gemstones, including amethyst, apatite, black onyx, blue topaz, carnelian, chalcedony, citrine, coral, garnet, white topaz, crystal, diamond, emerald, iolite, jade, Labradorite, moonstone, pearl, peridot, prehnite, rose quarz, ruby, sapphire, smokey topaz, tanzanite, tourmaline and tourquoise when you check out this gemstone chart: www.dashaboutique.com/gemstone chart.html
Birthstone Origins: Stranger than Fiction
by: Sam Serio
In the Old Testament, the book of Exodus tells the story of the Breastplate of Aaron, used in religious ceremonies. (Aaron…just in case you were absent from Sunday school that day…was the Biblical figure who performed, at Moses' direction, the miracles that confounded Pharaoh and his magicians.)
Aaron's breastplate was adorned with four rows of gemstones, three gemstones in each row, in the following pattern: Sardius, topaz, carbuncle; emerald, sapphire, diamond; ligure, agate, amethyst; beryl, onyx, jasper. These twelve gemstones represented the twelve tribes of Israel. The twelve positions were later co-opted by astologers who linked them to the twelve months of the calendar year and the twelve signs of the zodiac.
The Traditional Birthstone List contains these older birthstones and represents birthstone traditions heralding back to the 15th century. The Modern Birthstone List was created by the National Association of Jewelers in 1912 in Kansas City, Missouri. Gemstone purists complained that the NAJ list was devised solely for commercial purposes (they probably didn't believe in Santa Claus either!). As a result, astrologers who prescribed gems often substituted alternate or secondary stones. The Mystical Birthstone list below originated in from Tibet over a thousand years ago. The Ayurvedic Birthstone list is derived from age-old Ayurvedic Indian Medicine, a practice of native people for more than a century.
Month Modern Traditional Mystical Ayurverdic
January Garnet Garnet Emerald Garnet
February Amethyst Amethyst Amethyst Bloodstone
March Aquamarine Bloodstone Jade Bloodstone
April Diamond Diamond Opal Quartz
May Emerald Emerald Sapphire Agate
June Pearl Alexandrite Moonstone Pearl
July Ruby Ruby Ruby Ruby
August Peridot Sardonyx Diamond Sapphire
Sept. Sapphire Sapphire Agate Lapis Lazuli
October Opal Tourmaline Tourmaline Jasper
November Yellow Topaz Citrine Citrine Pearl
December Turquoise Lapis Lazuli Onyx Ruby
Astrologically speaking, your place on the Zodiac is more meaningful than your birth month for tapping into your "power," which has led to the creation of the following list of "Star Stones" related to the star under which you were born, rather than the day.
Capricorn (Dec. 22-Jan. 19) - Ruby, Agate, Garnet
Aquarius (Jan. 20-Feb. 18) - Garnet, Moss Agate, Opal, Amethyst,
Pisces (Feb. 19-Mar. 20) - Rock Crystal, Sapphire, Amethyst, Bloodstone
Aries (Mar. 21-Apr. 19) - Bloodstone, Diamond
Taurus (Apr. 20-May 20) - Sapphire, Turquoise, Amber, Blood Coral, Emerald
Gemini (May 21-Jun. 20) - Agate, Chrysoprase, Pearl
Cancer (Jun. 21-Jul. 22) - Emerald, Moonstone, Pearl, Ruby
Leo (Jul. 23-Aug. 22) - Tourmaline, Sardonyx, Onyx
Virgo (Aug. 23-Sep. 22) - Jasper, Carnelian, Jade, Sapphire
Libra (Sep. 23-Oct. 22) - Opal, Lapis Lazuli, Peridot
Scorpio (Oct. 23-Nov. 21) - Aquamarine, Topaz
Sagittarius (Nov. 22-Dec. 21) - Sapphire, Amethyst, Turquoise, Topaz
So whether you choose an emerald from the Breastplate of Aaron, a moonstone from Tibet's mystical birthstone list, an opal for its ayurvedic birthstone properties, or your very own "star sign" representative…may the force (of the birthstone) be with you!
Emerald Gemstone Information
by: Kaisilver
The emerald gemstone is one of the earliest gemstones known to mankind. However there are a few truths associated with this gemstone that most jewelry buyers do not know about. The reason is because sellers are often afraid that buyers would not buy emeralds and emerald jewelry if they knew the complete facts.
Ensure that you have complete knowledge of this exotic gemstone.
Emeralds are almost always treated for color enhancement and strength. The treatment on emerald gemstones would wear off with time and the emeralds will then need to be treated again by gemstone specialists.
Special care is to be taken when handling and wearing emerald jewelry. This gemstone is expensive and haphazard handling could ruin the gemstone.
Read all about the emerald gemstone on our full featured article. The Kaisilver newsletter is the most honest and straightforward online jewelry and gemstone newsletter.
The emerald gemstone information link is at: http://www.newsletter.kaijewels.com/emerald-gemstone-information.htm
Read all about it and keep posted as we provide you with more informative articles on gemstones and jewelry.
Thanks and God Bless.
Regards.
Ms.Jittrah
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